{"id":157972,"date":"2025-08-22T12:57:26","date_gmt":"2025-08-22T10:57:26","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/bellesguardgaudi.com\/?p=157972"},"modified":"2025-08-25T11:44:11","modified_gmt":"2025-08-25T09:44:11","slug":"did-you-know-the-houses-and-the-barcelona-where-gaudi-lived-ciutat-vella-barcelon","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/bellesguardgaudi.com\/en\/did-you-know-the-houses-and-the-barcelona-where-gaudi-lived-ciutat-vella-barcelon\/","title":{"rendered":"Did you know?  The houses \u2013 and the Barcelona \u2013 where Gaud\u00ed lived: Ciutat Vella. Barcelon"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><em>By Ferran Garc\u00e9s<\/em><\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone size-full wp-image-157942\" src=\"https:\/\/bellesguardgaudi.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/riera_de_st._joan_1808._j._vidal_i_ventosa.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"756\" height=\"535\" srcset=\"https:\/\/bellesguardgaudi.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/riera_de_st._joan_1808._j._vidal_i_ventosa.jpg 756w, https:\/\/bellesguardgaudi.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/riera_de_st._joan_1808._j._vidal_i_ventosa-300x212.jpg 300w, https:\/\/bellesguardgaudi.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/riera_de_st._joan_1808._j._vidal_i_ventosa-600x425.jpg 600w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 756px) 100vw, 756px\" \/>Last Friday, we looked at the houses where Gaud\u00ed spent his childhood and adolescence (see:<a href=\"https:\/\/bellesguardgaudi.com\/en\/did-you-know-the-houses-where-gaudi-lived-reus-and-riudoms\/\"> Reus and Riudoms<\/a>). Today we\u2019ll search for the addresses from his first period in Barcelona\u2019s Ciutat Vella, when he was still a young architecture student (1868\u20131876). Next Friday we\u2019ll discover the homes where that young man, now graduated, lived while working on the projects that made him famous. A route that will take us to areas that were just beginning to be urbanized at the time (1876\u20132026). However, as we\u2019ll soon see, Ciutat Vella was also undergoing major reforms while Gaud\u00ed lived there. Reforms that involved not only grand constructions but also major demolitions.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><strong>Barcelona \u2013 Gothic Quarter<\/strong><br \/>\n<strong>Student period (1868\u20131876)<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Three key dates to understand the Barcelona Gaud\u00ed knew.<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>First, 1854: authorization to demolish the city walls. A demolition that wouldn\u2019t be as swift as hoped.<\/li>\n<li>Second, 1860: inauguration of the Cerd\u00e0 Plan, which would urbanize the land beyond the old walls. The plan would undergo many changes.<\/li>\n<li>Third, 1868: the year Gaud\u00ed arrived in Barcelona, the year of the Cuban War, which gave its name to a well-known literary group, the Generation of \u201968, and the year of the September Revolution, also known as \u201cLa Gloriosa,\u201d which ended the reign of Isabella II of Spain. As a result of the new political climate, Barcelonans were also able to destroy one of the most hated areas of the city: the Citadel fortress, a symbol of repression after the 1714 siege of Barcelona. In its place, the City Council planned a large public park that would later be part of the 1888 Exhibition. Gaud\u00ed didn\u2019t know it yet, but he would make his debut in this park, located just a few meters from his first residence in Ciutat Vella.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>When he arrived in the Catalan capital, the future architect was sixteen years old. He first completed his final year of secondary school and then began university entrance studies. He entered the School of Architecture in 1873, just before turning twenty-two (1). He earned his degree in 1878. While studying, he worked as a draftsman for other architects involved in major city reforms, an experience that allowed him to develop not only his architectural talent but also his skills as an urban planner.<\/p>\n<p>He also spent a lot of time walking and studying the buildings and streets around him. Some, like the city walls, were about to be demolished; others, like the park, were about to emerge.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Placeta de Montcada, 12 (1868 \u2013 c. 1870)<\/strong><br \/>\nUntil the final years of his life, Gaud\u00ed never lived alone. A member of his family always accompanied him. His first residence in Barcelona, a rented room in a back shop, was shared with his brother Francesc, who aspired to become a doctor.<\/p>\n<p>Next to Placeta de Montcada is a street of the same name, referring to a powerful family, the Montcadas. The surrounding area, the Born and Ribera neighborhoods, is often described as one of the best examples of Gothic Barcelona. However, recent studies suggest it\u2019s not as medieval as it seems, although it once was (2). Today, this area\u2014home to the Picasso Museum and other tourist attractions\u2014is visited by thousands of people each year. In Gaud\u00ed\u2019s time, it consisted of a dense cluster of modest apartment buildings and shops.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_157946\" style=\"width: 510px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-157946\" class=\"wp-image-157946 size-full\" src=\"https:\/\/bellesguardgaudi.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/carrer-de-moncada.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"500\" height=\"698\" srcset=\"https:\/\/bellesguardgaudi.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/carrer-de-moncada.jpg 500w, https:\/\/bellesguardgaudi.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/carrer-de-moncada-215x300.jpg 215w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 500px) 100vw, 500px\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-157946\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Carrer Montcada, 1889\u20131905 \u2013 Author: Unknown \u2013 Historical Archive of the City of Barcelona AHCB-AFC.<\/p><\/div>\n<p>From their rented room, the Gaud\u00ed brothers were very close to the sea. But at that time, the Customs House, the Columbus monument, the current Fran\u00e7a train station, the Born Market, the Ciutadella Park, and Via Laietana had not yet been built. The port of Barcelona that welcomed the Gaud\u00ed brothers looked very different.\u00a0The so-called &#8220;Pared de Mar&#8221;, or Sea Wall, was the last section of the medieval walls to be demolished. It was built between 1878 and 1881 to build the current Passeig de Col\u00f3n. However, the building that did exist is the Llotja de Mar (&#8220;Sea Loggia&#8221;), which, at that time, became the headquarters of the School of Architecture, where Gaud\u00ed would soon become one of its first students (1).<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_157950\" style=\"width: 998px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-157950\" class=\"wp-image-157950 size-full\" src=\"https:\/\/bellesguardgaudi.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/muralla-Mar.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"988\" height=\"768\" srcset=\"https:\/\/bellesguardgaudi.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/muralla-Mar.jpg 988w, https:\/\/bellesguardgaudi.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/muralla-Mar-300x233.jpg 300w, https:\/\/bellesguardgaudi.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/muralla-Mar-768x597.jpg 768w, https:\/\/bellesguardgaudi.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/muralla-Mar-600x466.jpg 600w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 988px) 100vw, 988px\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-157950\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Sea Wall (now Passeig Colom), Joan Mart\u00ed, 1870\u20131879. Barcelona Photographic Archive.<\/p><\/div>\n<p>In mid-1870, the Gaud\u00ed brothers returned to Reus and Riudoms, where Anton reunited with two school friends. The three spent time at one of their homes in Espluga de Francol\u00ed, from where they visited the ruins of the Poblet Monastery and drafted a restoration project, with Gaud\u00ed responsible for the architectural part. It was likely there that he learned about the history of Mart\u00ed I the Humane, builder of <a href=\"https:\/\/bellesguardgaudi.com\/en\/did-you-know-the-birth-of-a-palace\/\">the old Bellesguard<\/a> palace, since this king is buried in the mentioned monastery.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Carrer de l\u2019Espaseria, 10 (c. 1870\u20131871)<\/strong><br \/>\nAs mentioned, Gaud\u00ed never lived alone. A family member always accompanied him. Two years after the Gaud\u00ed brothers arrived in Barcelona, their parents decided to move to the big city with Rosa, the third child. This required finding a slightly larger home. The move to the second residence wasn\u2019t difficult, as it was only 150 meters from the previous one.<\/p>\n<p>The new address recalls the old medieval guilds. The\u00a0<em>espasers<\/em>\u00a0were sword makers. Another nearby street is\u00a0<em>Argenteria<\/em>, the silversmiths\u2019 area (<em>argent<\/em>\u00a0means silver in Latin). Both streets connect to Santa Maria del Mar, the famous \u201cCathedral of the Sea,\u201d popularized by Ildefonso Falcones\u2019 novel. It\u2019s also known as the \u201cCathedral of the Poor,\u201d and the surrounding neighborhood was equally humble.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-157954\" src=\"https:\/\/bellesguardgaudi.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/antic-pont-santa-maria-mar-060923-1024x576-1.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1024\" height=\"576\" srcset=\"https:\/\/bellesguardgaudi.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/antic-pont-santa-maria-mar-060923-1024x576-1.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/bellesguardgaudi.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/antic-pont-santa-maria-mar-060923-1024x576-1-300x169.jpg 300w, https:\/\/bellesguardgaudi.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/antic-pont-santa-maria-mar-060923-1024x576-1-768x432.jpg 768w, https:\/\/bellesguardgaudi.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/antic-pont-santa-maria-mar-060923-1024x576-1-600x338.jpg 600w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Walking in the opposite direction to Santa Maria, one could access the space that would occupy the Ciutadella Park, but for now, only three buildings of the old fortress that were never demolished could be seen: the former governor&#8217;s palace, the church, and the arsenal. The latter is today the seat of the Parliament of Catalonia.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_157966\" style=\"width: 1034px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-157966\" class=\"wp-image-157966 size-full\" src=\"https:\/\/bellesguardgaudi.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/Ciutadella_1870.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1024\" height=\"805\" srcset=\"https:\/\/bellesguardgaudi.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/Ciutadella_1870.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/bellesguardgaudi.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/Ciutadella_1870-300x236.jpg 300w, https:\/\/bellesguardgaudi.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/Ciutadella_1870-768x604.jpg 768w, https:\/\/bellesguardgaudi.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/Ciutadella_1870-600x472.jpg 600w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-157966\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Appearance of the Ciutadella fortress in 1870. Author unknown. Source: Wikipedia<\/p><\/div>\n<p><strong>Carrer Montju\u00efc de Sant Pere, 16, now Carrer de Verdaguer i Call\u00eds, 16 (1872\u20131873)<\/strong><br \/>\nThe first two streets we\u2019ve seen so far are very close to the port. The third Gaud\u00ed residence begins to move away from the sea. In the following years, the family would gradually move closer to the mountains, following the city\u2019s natural expansion at the time.<\/p>\n<p>Once again, the surroundings of the Gaud\u00ed family&#8217;s third residence were very different from today. In fact, it was the area of Ciutat Vella destined to undergo the most radical transformation of all. Two changes, incidentally, contemporary with the construction of Torre Bellesguard.<\/p>\n<p>First, in 1904, in front of Carrer Montju\u00efc de Sant Pere, construction began on the Palau de la M\u00fasica Catalana, an iconic building of the city, both then and now (see:\u00a0<a href=\"https:\/\/bellesguardgaudi.com\/en\/music-in-the-time-of-gaudi-a-visit-to-the-palau-de-la-musica-catalana\/\"><em>Between Wagner and Clav\u00e9<\/em><\/a>). It was the work of Llu\u00eds Dom\u00e8nech i Montaner, another of the great modernist architects. Gaud\u00ed would frequent it regularly years later. He even attended a Gregorian chant course there in 1916, with one of his best friends, the musician Llu\u00eds Millet (see:<a href=\"https:\/\/bellesguardgaudi.com\/en\/music-in-the-time-of-gaudi-a-return-to-the-origins\/\">\u00a0<em>Return to the Origin<\/em><\/a>).<\/p>\n<p>Second, in 1908, the opening of Via Laietana began, a reform that led to the disappearance of about 85 streets, 2,200 houses\u2014many of them medieval palaces and monasteries\u2014and the forced displacement of around 10,000 people. As Sergi Hern\u00e1ndez says in a Betev\u00e9 report, \u201cIt\u2019s no coincidence that during the Tragic Week of 1909, many of the people who participated in the protests were former residents of the vanished neighborhood.\u201d (3) The current Carrer Verdaguer i Call\u00eds, where Gaud\u00ed lived, survived. However, the city around it was no longer the same and would continue to change, with more demolitions and new constructions&#8230;<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_157962\" style=\"width: 766px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-157962\" class=\"wp-image-157962 size-full\" src=\"https:\/\/bellesguardgaudi.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/riera_de_st._joan_1808._j._vidal_i_ventosa-1.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"756\" height=\"535\" srcset=\"https:\/\/bellesguardgaudi.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/riera_de_st._joan_1808._j._vidal_i_ventosa-1.jpg 756w, https:\/\/bellesguardgaudi.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/riera_de_st._joan_1808._j._vidal_i_ventosa-1-300x212.jpg 300w, https:\/\/bellesguardgaudi.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/riera_de_st._joan_1808._j._vidal_i_ventosa-1-600x425.jpg 600w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 756px) 100vw, 756px\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-157962\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Riera de Sant Joan, 1908. AFB, Jaume Vidal i Ventosa. Arxiu Fotogr\u00e0fic de Barcelona.<\/p><\/div>\n<p><strong>Carrer de Sant Rafael, 26, or Carrer Cadena, 22. Today, Rambla del Raval (1873\u20131876)<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>February 1873: proclamation of the First Spanish Republic, which would last until December 1874. Shortly before the failure of this government, in October 1874, Gaud\u00ed enrolled in the newly established School of Architecture. In early 1875, the architect was called up for military service, but as he was a student, he didn\u2019t have to go to the front lines of the Third Carlist War (1872\u20131876). He served in the administrative corps in the rear, without having to leave the city.<\/p>\n<p>At that time, he and his family lived in a new residence, which according to some sources was at Carrer de Sant Rafael, 26, and according to others, at Carrer Cadena, 22. In any case, it was on a corner. Today, however, almost no trace remains due to the recent opening of the Rambla del Raval in the year 2000.<\/p>\n<p>It\u2019s curious to think about the proximity of this residence to the Hospital de la Santa Creu, the place where the architect would die in 1926. Another coincidence: the first stone of this hospital was laid in the presence of King Mart\u00ed I the Humane, lord of Bellesguard in 1409, and of Llu\u00eds de Gualbes, an ancestor of <a href=\"https:\/\/bellesguardgaudi.com\/ca\/joan-de-gualbes\/\">Joan Gualbes<\/a>, the owner of Bellesguard in 1714, the year of the siege of Barcelona.<\/p>\n<p>Today, this hospital has been transformed into the National Library of Catalonia and, around it, many homes have been rehabilitated, along with the construction of modern museums like MACBA and CCCB. However, for a long time, the Raval was one of the neighborhoods with the worst reputation: home to workers and immigrants, dark and narrow streets, labor struggles, the \u201cBarri Xino\u201d&#8230; On the other hand, this is also the neighborhood where Gaud\u00ed would build the magnificent Palau G\u00fcell in 1890. However, the patron and the architect had not yet met\u2014but they would soon: in 1878.<\/p>\n<p>By around 1876, from his home next to the hospital where he would die forty-six years later, Gaud\u00ed had begun working as a draftsman for various architects. His first opportunity came from the master builder Josep Fontser\u00e9, responsible for exorcising the memory of the Citadel fortress with a public park of the same name. It seems Gaud\u00ed worked on part of the monumental waterfall and, entirely, on the perimeter fence of the park, including the entrance gate (6). The sculptures flanking it, the work of Agapit Vallmitjana, were placed later.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_157958\" style=\"width: 910px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-157958\" class=\"wp-image-157958 size-large\" src=\"https:\/\/bellesguardgaudi.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/1112px-Barcelona._Entrance_to_Ciudadela_Park-1024x829.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"900\" height=\"729\" srcset=\"https:\/\/bellesguardgaudi.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/1112px-Barcelona._Entrance_to_Ciudadela_Park-1024x829.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/bellesguardgaudi.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/1112px-Barcelona._Entrance_to_Ciudadela_Park-300x243.jpg 300w, https:\/\/bellesguardgaudi.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/1112px-Barcelona._Entrance_to_Ciudadela_Park-768x622.jpg 768w, https:\/\/bellesguardgaudi.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/1112px-Barcelona._Entrance_to_Ciudadela_Park-600x486.jpg 600w, https:\/\/bellesguardgaudi.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/08\/1112px-Barcelona._Entrance_to_Ciudadela_Park.jpg 1112w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 900px) 100vw, 900px\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-157958\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Entrance to Parc de la Ciutadella, ca. 1888\u20131901. Author: L\u00e9on &amp; L\u00e9vy. Wikipedia.<\/p><\/div>\n<p>Unfortunately, the year 1876 did not bring only good news. Within a short time, his brother\u2014recently graduated\u2014and his mother died. It seems this personal tragedy motivated the next change of address. Another possible reason: as wealthier families were moving to the newly built Eixample, perhaps the promising student wanted to be closer to them, rightly imagining it would be a zone full of opportunities for an architect. Next Friday, we\u2019ll see which were Gaud\u00ed\u2019s next addresses. It was from those homes that he would build the works that would make him famous&#8230;<\/p>\n<p><strong>Notes<\/strong><\/p>\n<p style=\"padding-left: 40px;\">(1) At that time, this institution was very new. \u201cHigher education in architecture did not begin in Barcelona until 1871, at the Free School, which became the official Higher School of Architecture in 1875, initially located on the second floor of the magnificent Gothic building of the Llotja de Barcelona.\u201d<br \/>\n\u2014 Tarragona i Claras\u00f3, Josep Maria, (2016),\u00a0<em>Gaud\u00ed, the Architect of the Sagrada Fam\u00edlia<\/em>, Torsimany Books, p. 36<\/p>\n<p style=\"padding-left: 40px;\">In this book, the author details the political and personal context of Gaud\u00ed during each year of his studies. Op. cit., p. 35\u201376<\/p>\n<p style=\"padding-left: 40px;\">(2) Montany\u00e0, Xavier (19\/07\/2020), <a href=\"https:\/\/www.vilaweb.cat\/noticies\/carrer-de-montcada-la-veritable-historia-que-explica-un-pais\/\">\u201cCarrer de Montcada, the true story that explains a country\u201d<\/a>, VillaWeb<\/p>\n<p style=\"padding-left: 40px;\">Monta\u00f1es, Jos\u00e9 \u00c1ngel (28\/06\/2020), <a href=\"https:\/\/elpais.com\/espana\/catalunya\/2020-06-28\/autopsia-a-la-calle-montcada.html\">\u201cAutopsy of Carrer Montcada\u201d,<\/a> El Pa\u00eds<\/p>\n<p style=\"padding-left: 40px;\">(3) Aguilera, Gemmma (23\/04\/2025),<a href=\"https:\/\/www.totbarcelona.cat\/es\/cultura-ocio\/patrimonio\/la-barcelona-que-la-primera-via-laietana-borro-del-mapa-614192\/\"> \u201cThe Barcelona that the first Via Laietana erased from the map\u201d<\/a>, TotBarcelona<\/p>\n<p style=\"padding-left: 40px;\">Editorial team: <a href=\"https:\/\/www.barcelona.cat\/arxiusoberts\/ca\/expo-virtual\/la-construccio-de-la-via-laietana\/\">\u201cThe construction of Via Laietana\u201d<\/a>, Barcelona.cat<\/p>\n<p style=\"padding-left: 40px;\">(4) Op. cit., Tarragona i Claras\u00f3, Josep Maria, (2016), p. 48\u201354<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>By Ferran Garc\u00e9s Last Friday, we looked at the houses where Gaud\u00ed spent his childhood and adolescence (see: Reus and Riudoms). Today we\u2019ll search for the addresses from his first period in Barcelona\u2019s Ciutat Vella, when he was still a young architecture student (1868\u20131876). Next Friday we\u2019ll discover the homes where that young man, now [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":6,"featured_media":157942,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[173],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-157972","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-did-you-know"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.2 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Did you know? The houses \u2013 and the Barcelona \u2013 where Gaud\u00ed lived: Ciutat Vella. 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